# OceanWave3D

For simulation of free surface flow over variable depth in coastal engineering a first Boussinesq model was derived by Peregrine (1976). This model was restricted to accurate simulation in shallow water. The equations was later extended for the adaption to deeper waters. This led to the development of several modified forms of Boussinesq-type equations, e.g. Madsen et al. (1992) and Nwogu (1993) and later Madsen et al. (2003). The OceanWave3D model addresses the limitations in practical application ranges of Boussinesq-type models and is based on the original work by Li and Fleming (1997) and has been extended and improved by Bingham Et al. (2007), Engsig-Karup et al. (2008), Engsig-Karup et al. (2011).